Having the summer off for the first time in five years was a blessing in disguise. No longer restricted by two-day weekends and post-work fatigue, I definitely had my best alpine summer to date. Ticking off routes that have been on the dream list, hiking deeper and staying out longer, and exploring new zones in the High Sierra only further confirmed the fact that this is truly the best place on earth to be a granite trad climber.
Luke with the incredible Merriam Peak in the background
A couple of weeks after our trip out to Mt. Goode, we hiked the 10 miles to Royce Lakes and the coveted Merriam Peak. I had been dreaming of this formation for years, and the routes were just as good as I’d imagine they’d be. The Croft and Rands’ route “The Gargoyle” (5.11b) featured crux pitches of perfect thin finger cracks in corners with just enough spice, and “The Direct North Buttress” (5.10b) was a joyous route of hand crack after sweet hand crack.
Luke traversing the long, exposed summit ridge on Merriam Peak
The beautiful, long approach towards Royce Pass
Our dreamy campsite, nestled among granite boulders
A couple of weeks later, refreshed and recharged, we packed up to head out for the Hulk - the most incredible chunk of pristine alpine granite you may ever lay eyes on - and set out for our mission of “Sunspot Dihedral” (5.11b) car-to-car in a day. This route was utterly FANTASTIC and had us both grinning from ear-to-ear. After a team onsight, we rapped down with plenty of daylight and meandered back to the car in the highest of spirits.
Can you tell that I’m PSYCHED?!
Chilly in the shade, even in July
The 180’ long splitter 5.11 corner mid-route
Luke follows the last part of the crux pitch
Next up was Mt. Whitney and Mt. Russell. After four days of rest from the Hulk, we packed our bags again (it gets easier and easier every time, especially when you bring the same food. Somehow I never get sick of ramen and honey mustard pretzels?)
Dawn lights up Whitney, Keeler and Day Needle while climbers begin their approach out of camp
Our biggest objective was to do two routes on Russell in a day - “Fishhook Arete” (5.9) and “Mithril Dihedral” (5.10a).
Luke approaching Mt. Russell
Luke looking through the summit register and being very happy at the end of our double-header day
We also tagged the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney the day before, and were up on top before noon
Taking a dip on our steep way out of the Whitney zone
Lastly, as the summer waned and the smoke from the creek fire rolled in, ending alpine season altogether, Annie and I were lucky enough to squeeze in another route at the Hulk “The Polish Route” (5.10+). By some miracle, we were the only ones on the formation all day, which was probably for the best as no one could hear us scream and moan from offwidth-related agony. Just kidding, the route is so good, so clean, so splitter, get on it!!
Annie following P3
Yum.
It just keeps going!
The classic Hulk cave bivy
The Sierra is just the gift that keeps on giving. And I’ve only scratched the surface. I’m lucky and grateful for all the experiences I’ve had, and can’t wait for what comes next.